Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Khmer New Year

Cambodians are so lucky:  They get to celebrate three New Years.  First is International New Years on January 1.  Second is Chinese New Year around February, which is not a government holiday, but many businesses close and people take off work.  Third, and most important, is Khmer New Year, which Cambodia just celebrated this week.

Khmer New Year is held in April, at the end of the harvest season for farmers.  Cambodians travel home to be with their families and celebrate for three days.  Khmer New Year traditions include: 
  • Cleaning your house and making purchases so that everything is "new" for the new year
  • Setting up a shrine in your home where you pray for good fortune in the new year
  • Bringing offerings to the monks at the Buddhist temples
  • Bathing Buddha statues and elders (such as your parents) in perfumed water
  • Participating in traditional games and dances
Many organizations hold a Khmer New Year celebration for their staff.  The U.S. Embassy was no different.  Our celebration started with monks offering a blessing for the new year.

Monks chant their blessing to the U.S. Embassy community
Then we were treated to traditional dances, both by professionals and our own talented staff.

Professional dancers perform the "Blessing Dance"

The highlight of the performances was a costume show of American staff wearing traditional outfits, complete with props and choreographed steps.


Dave and Laura showcase the "Fishing Dance" costumes

Sergio and Veronica smile in their "Krovanh Fruit Dance" costumes

After the performances, we started in on the games, which include Cambodian versions of tug-of-war, musical chairs, and sack races.  Eventually, the band kicked into high gear, and all party-goers danced into the night.

Friday, April 4, 2014

Observations of the First World

Jeremy and I just enjoyed a wonderful vacation in Australia.  Now that we live in the developing world, it's always extremely interesting, and exciting, to visit the First World and notice our reactions to it.  Here are a few of my observations:

Clean public bathrooms with reliably functioning flush toilets, running water, and soap are AWESOME!  Cambodia doesn't actually do too badly in the toilet department, but it's rare to find all four characteristics - clean, flushing, sink, and soap - on a consistent basis.  Australia also did a perfect job of providing free toilets in public spaces like parks and beaches whenever I needed one!

Roads with lines, stoplights, and pedestrian crossings that drivers actually respect are truly fascinating.  As I've mentioned in previous posts, the streets of Phnom Penh are chaotic.  Being in a place where drivers stay in their lanes, obey traffic lights, and stop for pedestrians was a bit of a (pleasant) shock.  Yet every time I crossed the street in Australia, even when all traffic was stopped and I had the right of way, I couldn't break the habit of looking every which way for possible oncoming vehicles hurtling my way.

On the flipside, I found the sidewalks difficult to deal with.  In Phnom Penh, there aren't a lot of walkers.  In Sydney and Melbourne, especially in the Central Business Districts, there are hordes of pedestrians.  Every cross walk felt like a battleground of trying to thread a path through the wall of people heading towards me.  In fact, I decided that the sidewalks of Australia are a bit like the streets of Phnom Penh - the "correct" side to walk/drive on is debatable, people stop or change pace/direction with no thought to who might be behind them, it's simply every woman for herself!

In Phnom Penh, I'm always hyper-aware of my surroundings, whether I'm driving or walking. When I'm driving, it's because I don't want to run anyone over.  When I'm walking, it's because I don't want to get run over!  However, I didn't have either of these concerns in Australia.  So I found it really easy to zone out a bit when driving through the country side or walking down uncrowded sidewalks.  I'm not sure this was really a good thing, because it meant I wasn't truly present in the moment, I was simply passing through it.

I was enthralled by all the gardens in Australia.  Every city we visited had large public gardens, usually multiple ones.  My favorites were Sydney's Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens, and Launceston's City Park.  I just loved strolling along and seeing a bright array of vibrantly colored flowers in front of me.  And it was wonderful seeing people using the gardens in different ways - teenagers sunbathing, couples reading, businessmen lunching, families picnicking.  I realized I've been starved of green space in Phnom Penh.  Phnom Penh does have parks, but most of them are paved, without much grass and only a sprinkling of trees.  Being surrounded by green - with grass beneath my feet, plants all around me, and a canopy of tree leaves above me - made me feel so content.

Museums were such a pleasure in Australia.  Displays were carefully organized to tell a story; everything was clearly labeled; exhibits were well-maintained.  I've been to several museums in Cambodia where I've walked out not feeling very sure of what I've been looking at.  Displays were haphazardly arranged; cases were overflowing with artifacts, with nary a label to explain their importance; sometimes exhibits had been defaced or well-past their prime.  I realize that Cambodia has many more pressing concerns than celebrating its cultural heritage, but it's sad to see such a lack of interest in preserving the past.

Of course, it was a fabulous trip.  We got to see new sights and visit with old friends.  We walked down sandy beaches and hiked through national parks.  We were able to recharge and come back to our regular lives refreshed, which should be the point of any vacation.

River God Fountain in Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens

Rose Garden in Sydney's Royal Botanic Gardens

Jeremy playing chess in Launceston's City Park (Tasmania)

Erica feeding kangaroos in Tasmania


Jeremy at the Sydney Opera House