Marine Ball

The United States Marine Corps was created on November 10, 1775 and since 1921 the Commandant of the Marine Corps has directed all Marines around the world to commemorate that date as the Marine Corps Birthday.  At Embassy Phnom Penh's 2014 Marine Corps Ball, Guest Speaker Brigadier General Paul J. Kennedy joked that the other branches of the armed services think that the entire Marine Corps takes off the whole month of November to throw itself a birthday party.  And at U.S. embassies around the world, there's a bit of a joke that the Ball is simply an excuse for an embassy prom.  There may be a kernel of truth to both these jokes, but the Marine Ball offers a perfect opportunity to remember the sacrifices that Marines make and to appreciate the Marine Security Guards assigned to our embassy.

Because the Marine Ball is a formal occasion, I decided to go all out.  In Cambodia, weddings are often the occasion when ladies get all dolled up.  It is common for ladies to go to the salon for fancy hairdos and layers of makeup.  I chose to follow suit.  I went to my neighborhood salon, Windsor, and got the full package - makeup, false eyelashes, and hair reminiscent of an 80s punk band!

My funky 'do!

Although my hair  made quite a statement, it was actually Jeremy's shoes that stole the show. He wore fabulous silver shoes that transformed him into a god on the dance floor, complete with Michael Jackson sound effects and scene-stealing moves.

Erica's red shoes outshone by Jeremy's silver ones

When the DJ played "Summer Nights" from Grease, it turned into a battle of the sexes on the dance floor, with Jeremy dropping to his knees proclaiming his devotion to the ladies.

The dueling sexes sing "Summer Nights"

It was a great night - a wonderful excuse to get dressed up, dance until we couldn't dance anymore, and party with our Marines!

Erica and Jeremy

Erica with the Embassy Phnom Penh Marine Security Guards

Cambodian Water Festival

Last week, Cambodia celebrated Water Festival for the first time in four years.  Water Festival is normally an annual event, but the festival hasn't been held since 2010 when over 350 died in a stampede on a bridge.  Since then, Water Festival has been cancelled for various official reasons, some legitimate, others questionable.  However, since the announcement that the festival would go on this year, the city has been abuzz, both in excited anticipation of the celebrations and in trepidation of a possible repeat of tragedy.

On the first night of the festival, Jeremy and I went to check things out.  Although Water Festival is centered on the waterfront, every public plaza we passed along the way was packed with people, lined with vendors selling food and goods, and filled with stages for entertainers.  Normally it takes us 30 minutes to walk to the waterfront, but this time it took an hour to make it through the crowded streets.  

Arriving at the waterfront, we were greeted with one of the primary attractions of Water Festival: the illuminated boats!  Those of you familiar with my love of Christmas lights can imagine my excitement at seeing these colorful displays on the water!  Each boat was also playing traditional music.  Lights AND music - I was in heaven!  

My favorite boat:  Ministry of Commerce's map of Cambodia

The boats made such a pretty sight lighting up the dark river.

I also love that the Royal Palace was lit up for the festival.

The next day, I went to see the other principal feature of Water Festival:  the boat races.  Teams around the country have been competing for months to qualify for participation.  I was not prepared for how long these boats would be!  Each boat had at least 75 rowers in it, and sometimes I could see a boat bouncing in the water as the rowers moved in unison to propel it forward.  The races seemed continual, without any fanfare as each race ended and the next one began.  But spectators were clearly cheering on specific teams and having a good time.

Long boat race

Although only three hours out of the three-day festival was enough for me, the excitement was palpable in the air and I definitely caught some of it.  I'm so glad that I had the chance to participate in this unique Cambodian experience. 

Fun Temples of Chiang Mai

Last weekend, Jeremy and I visited Chiang Mai in Thailand.  Visitors to Chiang Mai essentially have three main options for activities:  1) tour the many temples in the city, 2) visit animal attractions to do things like feed elephants, or 3) travel outside the city for sporty activities such as ziplining.  Not having the energy for a sporty vacation or an interest in animals after our many great safaris in Kenya, we chose the temple route.  We discovered that Chiang Mai has several quirky temple features!

Directly in front of Wat Ket Karam was a dog fountain.  Most of the dogs were spitting water out of their mouths, but one was shown lifting its leg and peeing!  Another one was laying flat on its belly with his legs sticking straight out behind him.  We wondered if this was the "dog temple" because in addition to the fountain, we saw lots of dog statues scattered around the complex.  Very interesting!

Wat Ket Karam Dog Fountain

Located on a mountain just outside the city, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of Chiang Mai's most popular temples.  It required a 15-minute taxi ride up a windy, motion-sickness-inducing road.  My stomach was able to settle itself along the 300-step staircase to the temple.  Just inside, we were greeted with this fabulous shrine of Buddha statues wrapped in leopard and tiger prints!

Tiger Buddha at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Around the back of the temple was another puzzling display of statues.   I think most were Buddhas, wearing extra adornments such as caps and eyeglasses.  Communing with the Buddhas were some deer and a turtle.  The whole scene reminded me of garden gnomes and the over-the-top lawn displays that can be found sprinkled across America.

Garden Gnome Gathering at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

After this trip, I can say that I am officially templed-out.  I've gone temple touring in three countries - Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand - and also seen temples in Vietnam and Malaysia. Perhaps I should take an offering to the local wat to earn enough merits not to have to visit another temple again!

Just Stay Still and Look at the Green Light

I have now joined the ranks of people who have had lasik surgery.  I got a great deal from this back-alley surgeon in Phnom Penh.  Just kidding!  I traveled to Bangkok to the well-respected TRSC International Lasik Centre.  

I've been thinking about lasik for a couple months, after an embassy colleague said they had the surgery in Bangkok.  In August, I went for the mandatory pre-operative eye examination.  I had two hours of exams including multiple measurements of my eyes and and several tests of my vision.  Then I watched a video about the surgical procedure and all the things that can go wrong.  After the doctors confirmed I was a candidate for surgery, I returned to Cambodia with six weeks to think about all the complications that could possibly ensue.

To make matters worse, I started talking to other people who had had lasik.  One person told me that during the surgery, he noticed a slight odor...which was actually from the laser cutting into his eye.  Great!  Another person told me that it was very important to listen to the doctor's instructions carefully and focus your eyes exactly as directed.  She had a friend who couldn't keep her eyes still and it messed up the surgery.  Even better!

So I returned to TRSC last Monday very nervous.  But this place had their procedure down pat.  First they gave me a valium to calm my nerves.  Then they gave me dozens of numbing eye drops.  My Patient Counselor, Haruna, even held my hand as the procedure started.

As promised, the surgery was quick and painless.  I felt only slight pressure but no pain.  I did smell a slight, brief odor.  I was easily able to keep my eyes focused and still.  After the surgery, I had to wear these hockey-mask-like eye shields.  I'm sure I was quite a sight at the hotel restaurant for dinner!  When I returned to TRSC the next day and the eye shields were taken off, I could see!  My eyes are still adjusting and still feel like they have a grain of sand in them, but that will get better as the days go on.  I'm really excited about my glasses-free life and don't know why I didn't do this sooner!

Patient Counselor Haruna with me in my stylish eye shields after surgery.

Senteurs d'Angkor

One of my very favorite stores in Cambodia is Senteurs d'Angkor.  At their workshop location, I took a tour to see how their products are made.

First was my favorite:  candles.  Senteurs makes candles of all shapes, scents, and sizes, from small floating candles to large pillar ones.  These rows of candles are sitting and waiting to be fully set.

Going beyond scents, Senteurs sells a variety of Cambodian spices and seasonings.  This display shows the six spices that combine to make Amok seasoning.  Fish Amok is a quintessential Cambodian dish that any visitor must try.

Senteurs d'Angkor also has a range of personal care products, including scented soaps, lotions, and massage oils.  In the drying room, shelves and shelves of soaps spend hours drying before they are ready for packaging. 

Speaking of packaging, Senteurs makes their own.  They take the leaves of the sugar palm plant, dye them, and weave them into beautiful boxes.  These ladies are at the final weaving stage.

Of course, I couldn't leave without making some purchases.  I bought lemongrass, coconut, and jasmine candles, all in their beautiful sugar palm leaf boxes.

Livin' It Up in Kuala Lumpur

Since arriving in Cambodia, people have been telling me I must visit Kuala Lumpur before leaving Southeast Asia.  Over Labor Day weekend, I finally followed that advice.  Jeremy had to stay in Phnom Penh for work, so it became a girls weekend with my friend Roxanne.

One of the things we were most excited about was the food.  Expats in Cambodia do not eat street food because you're likely to spend the next day on the toilet (if you're lucky) or in the hospital (if you're not so lucky).  But Kuala Lumpur (or KL) has a thriving street food scene that tastes great and doesn't kill your stomach.  Our very first stop was Lot 10, a food court that was a never-ending rabbit warren of food options.  I tried a traditional Malaysian dish and Roxanne was in heaven eating Chinese dumplings.

Roxanne enjoying her meal at Lot 10

We also saw many vendors selling durian or durian-flavored products.  For the uninitiated, durian is an Asian fruit known for having such a strong smell that it's actually banned from some locations such as planes and hotels.  I decided this was the weekend to finally try durian.  We found a stall with a very nice lady selling durian pancakes - thin slices of durian wrapped in a pancake with whipped cream.  I took a bite and tasted...onion and garlic!  Not what I was expecting!  But I had the pleasure of continuing to taste it while it lingered in the back of my throat for much of the afternoon.  I don't think I'll be eating durian again!

Erica getting her first bite of durian

To go along with all the food, KL has lots of shopping malls.  Although I did not do any shopping (I swear!), I went into at least four malls.  It was literally impossible to avoid shopping malls as we strolled through central KL.

Pavilion Mall in KL's Golden Triangle District

We also fit in a bit of sightseeing between the food and the malls.  Malaysia is a predominantly Muslim country, so a stop at a mosque is practically obligatory.

Masjid Jamek Mosque

Even with Islam's dominance, Hinduism has strong roots in the country and is widely practiced.  I'd never seen a Hindu temple before and loved all the bright colors and carvings.

Sri Mahamariamman Hindu Temple

With a 25% Chinese population, Chinese temples also abound.  This temple displays a mix of Buddhist and Taoist influences.

Thean Hou Temple

And, of course, no visit to KL would be complete without seeing the famous Petronas Towers. Instead of climbing the towers, we found a bar with a nice view of them!

Roxanne and Erica with Petronas Towers

Everyone who said I should visit KL was absolutely right.  It was a small taste of modernity compared to Phnom Penh.  The people were incredibly friendly and excited to help us experience their city.  It was a perfect weekend getaway!

Exercise Row

Since arriving in Phnom Penh, I have wanted to try the exercise machines.  Along the very open and very public waterfront, there is a row of a dozen exercise machines.  Within my first week here, I noticed they were all occupied during my morning commute.  Cambodians enjoy exercise, and generally work out in the early morning and late afternoons when it's slightly cooler than the hot, humid mid-day.  I soon looked forward every day to passing the machines - I call them Exercise Row - and became fascinated that people felt comfortable working out in such a public fashion.  Some of the machines do not place your body parts in the most flattering positions, but Cambodians either don't mind or don't care!

  

Erica at Exercise Row

This past weekend, I finally set out to visit Exercise Row and check it out up-close.  After taking ample time to stroll and shop along the waterfront, it was 11:00 by the time we arrived.  For once, it was a ghost town.  There was not a single other person there.  Which was perfect, because Laura and I had the place to ourselves to try every machine!

Laura using the leg swing machine

Erica on the elliptical

Laura on the what-is-this-thing-and-what-body-part-does-it-work-out?

We quickly discovered why no one else was at Exercise Row.  Besides the strong sun and the humid air, the metal equipment was crazy hot.  In fact, I could barely hold myself up on the parallel bars long enough for the below photo without burning my hands!  But I made it through every machine and can now say: "Exercise Row - check!"
 

Erica struggling not to burn her hands on the parallel bars