Sign, Sign, Everywhere a Sign

English speakers traveling the world have long delighted in spying funny, odd, or just plain wrong written English in the countries they visit.  Here's a sample of my favorites from Cambodia: 

I don't actually understand this sign (above) or what it's for.  I think it's for a public toilet in the downtown area.  Which is not a funny thing, especially since it would be the only public toilet I'm aware of in Phnom Penh.  But the funny part is written at the bottom:

"Mr. Toilet Public - Funded by the World Toilet Association"  

For many months I had assumed this sign (above) for the "Ministry of Cult and Religion" was a misprint and that it meant to read Ministry of Culture and Religion.  But I later found out that the true English name of this government institution matches the sign.  Clearly, Cambodians use the word cult differently and don't attach all the negative connotations to it that we do.

We saw this sign (above) on the highway while taking a road trip.  The statement "Think - Accident Bring Tears, Safety Brings Cheers" is completely true and accurate, despite a slight grammatical error.  But the sentiment is so cute and unlikely to be used on American highways, it brought a grin to my face.

This sign (above) is my favorite!  It was on a fence put up at a construction site near the Royal Palace, whose roof you can see in the background.  It read "No task banned" but I am sure it meant to say "Notice banned" as in no posting any signs on the fence.  But the combination of the mixup of similar sounds (no task = notice, close enough, right?) with the result of the sign stating the exact opposite of its intention (if no task is banned, then posting notices is okay!) still makes me laugh every time I think about it!

Motos, and Vans, and Chickens...Oh My!

A favorite pastime among expats in Phnom Penh is to talk about the crazy things we see on the roads.  Not only the unsafe driving habits, but the creative ways that Cambodians transport people and cargo.

One endlessly fascinating thing is the number of items that Cambodians can fit on a vehicle. Most Americans would probably only put two people maximum on a motorcycle.  Seeing three or more people on a moto in Phnom Penh is commonplace.  Jeremy says he saw seven once - one adult, two teenagers, and four children - but there is no photographic evidence to back up this claim.

Moto with four passengers - three adults and one child

A similar principle applies to cars here.  Again, Americans would normally count how many seats they have and only fill their car with that many people.  In Cambodia, any available space is fair game.  Including opening up the trunk of a van so that people can hang out the back or putting people on the roof!  Here's such a vehicle we saw employing both ideas at once.  And this was not on a side street on a quick jaunt across town.  This was on a highway connecting two cities. Looks comfy!

There's always room for one - or five - more

There also doesn't seem to be a limit on how much cargo you can pile onto a moto.  This moto driver has side baskets to give him more hauling space.  He's loaded both of them higher than his own head.  I can't imagine how difficult it was to balance that moto, let alone take a turn without tipping over!

2 side baskets provides 4 times as much space!  Great math!

The other amazing thing is the type of cargo seen on vehicles.  Again, the moto is king and Cambodians can fit anything on a moto.  Furniture?  Ladder?  Windshield?  No problem!  It'll work!

Moto transporting furniture

Animals on motos are also commonplace, especially once you get out of the city.  This moto has a pig strapped to the back, and the passenger is actually sitting on top of the pig!

Pig mobile

Chickens are normally tied to the moto by their feet, which leaves them hanging upside down.  A friend of mine saw such a chicken moto once when she was driving to work.  She was horrified to watch as one of the poor upside down chickens vomited.  She didn't eat chicken for days after that!  I have no idea if the chickens I've seen on motos were alive or dead, but given that story, I guess I have to assume they were alive.  

Moto with dozens of chickens

So that I don't end this post by ruining your dinner, I'll finish on a more positive note.  Not all animals on motos are destined for the slaughterhouse.  I've seen many people with their pet dogs on motos.  One day, these two ladies were stopped next to us at a busy intersection.  We had just enough time to find out this cool dog's name - Lucky - and snap a photo before traffic started moving again!

Coolest dog in Phnom Penh - Lucky!

Marine Ball

The United States Marine Corps was created on November 10, 1775 and since 1921 the Commandant of the Marine Corps has directed all Marines around the world to commemorate that date as the Marine Corps Birthday.  At Embassy Phnom Penh's 2014 Marine Corps Ball, Guest Speaker Brigadier General Paul J. Kennedy joked that the other branches of the armed services think that the entire Marine Corps takes off the whole month of November to throw itself a birthday party.  And at U.S. embassies around the world, there's a bit of a joke that the Ball is simply an excuse for an embassy prom.  There may be a kernel of truth to both these jokes, but the Marine Ball offers a perfect opportunity to remember the sacrifices that Marines make and to appreciate the Marine Security Guards assigned to our embassy.

Because the Marine Ball is a formal occasion, I decided to go all out.  In Cambodia, weddings are often the occasion when ladies get all dolled up.  It is common for ladies to go to the salon for fancy hairdos and layers of makeup.  I chose to follow suit.  I went to my neighborhood salon, Windsor, and got the full package - makeup, false eyelashes, and hair reminiscent of an 80s punk band!

My funky 'do!

Although my hair  made quite a statement, it was actually Jeremy's shoes that stole the show. He wore fabulous silver shoes that transformed him into a god on the dance floor, complete with Michael Jackson sound effects and scene-stealing moves.

Erica's red shoes outshone by Jeremy's silver ones

When the DJ played "Summer Nights" from Grease, it turned into a battle of the sexes on the dance floor, with Jeremy dropping to his knees proclaiming his devotion to the ladies.

The dueling sexes sing "Summer Nights"

It was a great night - a wonderful excuse to get dressed up, dance until we couldn't dance anymore, and party with our Marines!

Erica and Jeremy

Erica with the Embassy Phnom Penh Marine Security Guards

Cambodian Water Festival

Last week, Cambodia celebrated Water Festival for the first time in four years.  Water Festival is normally an annual event, but the festival hasn't been held since 2010 when over 350 died in a stampede on a bridge.  Since then, Water Festival has been cancelled for various official reasons, some legitimate, others questionable.  However, since the announcement that the festival would go on this year, the city has been abuzz, both in excited anticipation of the celebrations and in trepidation of a possible repeat of tragedy.

On the first night of the festival, Jeremy and I went to check things out.  Although Water Festival is centered on the waterfront, every public plaza we passed along the way was packed with people, lined with vendors selling food and goods, and filled with stages for entertainers.  Normally it takes us 30 minutes to walk to the waterfront, but this time it took an hour to make it through the crowded streets.  

Arriving at the waterfront, we were greeted with one of the primary attractions of Water Festival: the illuminated boats!  Those of you familiar with my love of Christmas lights can imagine my excitement at seeing these colorful displays on the water!  Each boat was also playing traditional music.  Lights AND music - I was in heaven!  

My favorite boat:  Ministry of Commerce's map of Cambodia

The boats made such a pretty sight lighting up the dark river.

I also love that the Royal Palace was lit up for the festival.

The next day, I went to see the other principal feature of Water Festival:  the boat races.  Teams around the country have been competing for months to qualify for participation.  I was not prepared for how long these boats would be!  Each boat had at least 75 rowers in it, and sometimes I could see a boat bouncing in the water as the rowers moved in unison to propel it forward.  The races seemed continual, without any fanfare as each race ended and the next one began.  But spectators were clearly cheering on specific teams and having a good time.

Long boat race

Although only three hours out of the three-day festival was enough for me, the excitement was palpable in the air and I definitely caught some of it.  I'm so glad that I had the chance to participate in this unique Cambodian experience. 

Fun Temples of Chiang Mai

Last weekend, Jeremy and I visited Chiang Mai in Thailand.  Visitors to Chiang Mai essentially have three main options for activities:  1) tour the many temples in the city, 2) visit animal attractions to do things like feed elephants, or 3) travel outside the city for sporty activities such as ziplining.  Not having the energy for a sporty vacation or an interest in animals after our many great safaris in Kenya, we chose the temple route.  We discovered that Chiang Mai has several quirky temple features!

Directly in front of Wat Ket Karam was a dog fountain.  Most of the dogs were spitting water out of their mouths, but one was shown lifting its leg and peeing!  Another one was laying flat on its belly with his legs sticking straight out behind him.  We wondered if this was the "dog temple" because in addition to the fountain, we saw lots of dog statues scattered around the complex.  Very interesting!

Wat Ket Karam Dog Fountain

Located on a mountain just outside the city, Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is one of Chiang Mai's most popular temples.  It required a 15-minute taxi ride up a windy, motion-sickness-inducing road.  My stomach was able to settle itself along the 300-step staircase to the temple.  Just inside, we were greeted with this fabulous shrine of Buddha statues wrapped in leopard and tiger prints!

Tiger Buddha at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

Around the back of the temple was another puzzling display of statues.   I think most were Buddhas, wearing extra adornments such as caps and eyeglasses.  Communing with the Buddhas were some deer and a turtle.  The whole scene reminded me of garden gnomes and the over-the-top lawn displays that can be found sprinkled across America.

Garden Gnome Gathering at Wat Phra That Doi Suthep

After this trip, I can say that I am officially templed-out.  I've gone temple touring in three countries - Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand - and also seen temples in Vietnam and Malaysia. Perhaps I should take an offering to the local wat to earn enough merits not to have to visit another temple again!

Just Stay Still and Look at the Green Light

I have now joined the ranks of people who have had lasik surgery.  I got a great deal from this back-alley surgeon in Phnom Penh.  Just kidding!  I traveled to Bangkok to the well-respected TRSC International Lasik Centre.  

I've been thinking about lasik for a couple months, after an embassy colleague said they had the surgery in Bangkok.  In August, I went for the mandatory pre-operative eye examination.  I had two hours of exams including multiple measurements of my eyes and and several tests of my vision.  Then I watched a video about the surgical procedure and all the things that can go wrong.  After the doctors confirmed I was a candidate for surgery, I returned to Cambodia with six weeks to think about all the complications that could possibly ensue.

To make matters worse, I started talking to other people who had had lasik.  One person told me that during the surgery, he noticed a slight odor...which was actually from the laser cutting into his eye.  Great!  Another person told me that it was very important to listen to the doctor's instructions carefully and focus your eyes exactly as directed.  She had a friend who couldn't keep her eyes still and it messed up the surgery.  Even better!

So I returned to TRSC last Monday very nervous.  But this place had their procedure down pat.  First they gave me a valium to calm my nerves.  Then they gave me dozens of numbing eye drops.  My Patient Counselor, Haruna, even held my hand as the procedure started.

As promised, the surgery was quick and painless.  I felt only slight pressure but no pain.  I did smell a slight, brief odor.  I was easily able to keep my eyes focused and still.  After the surgery, I had to wear these hockey-mask-like eye shields.  I'm sure I was quite a sight at the hotel restaurant for dinner!  When I returned to TRSC the next day and the eye shields were taken off, I could see!  My eyes are still adjusting and still feel like they have a grain of sand in them, but that will get better as the days go on.  I'm really excited about my glasses-free life and don't know why I didn't do this sooner!

Patient Counselor Haruna with me in my stylish eye shields after surgery.

Senteurs d'Angkor

One of my very favorite stores in Cambodia is Senteurs d'Angkor.  At their workshop location, I took a tour to see how their products are made.

First was my favorite:  candles.  Senteurs makes candles of all shapes, scents, and sizes, from small floating candles to large pillar ones.  These rows of candles are sitting and waiting to be fully set.

Going beyond scents, Senteurs sells a variety of Cambodian spices and seasonings.  This display shows the six spices that combine to make Amok seasoning.  Fish Amok is a quintessential Cambodian dish that any visitor must try.

Senteurs d'Angkor also has a range of personal care products, including scented soaps, lotions, and massage oils.  In the drying room, shelves and shelves of soaps spend hours drying before they are ready for packaging. 

Speaking of packaging, Senteurs makes their own.  They take the leaves of the sugar palm plant, dye them, and weave them into beautiful boxes.  These ladies are at the final weaving stage.

Of course, I couldn't leave without making some purchases.  I bought lemongrass, coconut, and jasmine candles, all in their beautiful sugar palm leaf boxes.