Wednesday, September 4, 2013

Worst Things About Phnom Penh

My last blog post focused on the best things about Phnom Penh.  Now it's time for the worst...

The worst thing about Phnom Penh is the prevalence of bag snatching.  I've been here just over 7 months and I already know 7 people who have been victims of attempted or successful bag snatchings. The most common snatching scenario is you'll be riding in a tuk tuk or walking down the street, and someone on a moto will drive up close, grab your bag, and speed off.  Whenever I'm out and about with a bag, I'm on high alert.

So, if I'm worried about bag snatching, why don't I just drive more?  The next worst thing about Phnom Penh is driving.  I've already talked a bit about the driving in a previous post.  In addition to the fabulous habits of turning into oncoming traffic and only looking forward (never to the side or heaven forbid in the rearview mirror), Cambodian drivers are compelled to keep moving forward into all available space, even if it is completely unsafe, inconveniences others, or snarls everyone into a traffic jam.  The other night, I was in the far left lane with my left turn signal on, waiting for an opening in oncoming traffic to make my left turn.  However, motos kept coming up from behind and passing me on the left.  You seriously need to have nerves of steel and eyes on the back of your head to drive safely around here!

Back out of the car, I find myself on foot.  Sadly, walking is only slightly less worse than driving.  First, there is the aforementioned bag snatching concern.  Second, it's rare to be able to walk a full block on the sidewalk, due to drivers parking on the sidewalk:


or creative gardeners planting vegetation smack in the middle of the sidewalk: 


These obstacles mean I'm constantly having to weave back and forth from sidewalk to road.  Added to this, it's nearly impossible to enjoy a quiet walk without being hailed by eager businessmen:  "Hello! Tuk Tuk?" or "Moto Madame?"

All of these factors play into what could be the worst situation.  It's very easy for me to ride my tuk tuk into work, stay in the Embassy building all day, carpool home with a colleague, and then spend the entire evening in my 8th floor apartment, avoiding all bag snatching, driving, and walking, but also not interacting with the city around me.  So, that will be my challenge:  to rise above these annoyances - possibly even embrace them - to enjoy the many good things Phnom Penh has to offer.

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