Kep's Hidden Charms?

Jeremy and I spent Memorial Day relaxing in Kep, one of the beach towns of Cambodia.  Aside from the beach, pool, and afternoon cocktails (all of which were good!), a highlight of the trip was our hike in Kep National Park.  

The local Led Zep cafe and its expat staff have appointed themselves caretakers of the park. They have cleared trails, created a trail map, and marked the park with bright yellow signs to guide our way.  This was ingenious because all we had to see was a yellow sign or even a yellow dot of paint on a rock to know that we were still heading in the right direction.  If all your hiking has been in the western world, then clear trail signs might not seem like much, but in Cambodia, it's quite impressive!

Lep Zep's bright yellow trail signs 

After reviewing the map, we decided to take the "Stairway to Heaven" trail (why not, right?).  The trail started out with actual concrete stairs, but quickly moved to fun, switch-back trails through the jungle.

Jeremy at the "Stairway to Heaven"

As we climbed higher, we came upon a small cluster of houses.  I was surprised to find people living this far into park; my best guess is that they were the maintenance staff for the nearby cell phone towers.  We also saw a familiar face:  a poster of Britney Spears covering one of the windows!

Britney Spears poster in Kep National Park

Our trip on the "Stairway to Heaven" ended at Sunset Rock.  Although it was not sunset, it was a bit heavenly, with a beautiful view of Kep, including the well-known Crab Market, Kep Beach, and the Pacific Ocean.

View of Kep from Sunset Rock

After taking in the view, we explored around, following other short trails.  As we entered one clearing, I almost walked right into Jeremy as he stopped dead in his tracks.  I peered around him and saw the thick tail of a snake slither away, less than 10 meters from us.  Jeremy turned to me and said "That was a cobra!  It reared up and spread its hood at us!"  Suddenly aware of the danger of venomous snakes around us, we looked around at our feet, back up at each other, and quickly made our exit out of the park!

Elusive Happiness

I was walking home from the gym yesterday, thinking back on all the frustrations of my work day and hoping for a stress-free holiday at home today.  (It is a national holiday for the Cambodian King's birthday.)  Along the way, several tuk tuk drivers hailed me with hopefulness:  "Tuk tuk madame?"  Even though I replied "No," they all nodded kindly in return.

It got me thinking about "my" tuk tuk driver, Pros, who drives me to and from work every day.  Pros always greets me with a large grin and kindly acknowledges my boggled efforts to speak Khmer (the Cambodian language).  On average, Pros receives about $100 a month from me, depending on how often I call him for additional driving on the weekends.  I hope he has other customers, but I honestly don't know.  Either way, he's making more than the Cambodian garment workers, who earn $80 a month.

I make more money than that in a DAY, as do the majority of middle-class Americans.  I'm healthy and able-bodied, evidenced by the fact that I was walking home from the gym.  I have a comfortable home with generator-backed air conditioning, very welcome in this tropical climate.  I have secure employment that lets me see the world.  Yet, here I was brooding about the petty inconveniences of the day, even as Cambodians - likely with far larger concerns - took the time to give me a kind smile.  I even passed a cute little boy who spontaneously called "Hello!" and cheerfully waved as I passed by.

So, today, I will strive to enjoy my holiday.  I will tackle my to-do list, but try to be easy on myself if I don't finish it.  I will endeavor to be kind to those around me, even if hiccups arise to test my patience and understanding.  Mostly I will attempt to be grateful for all that I have and find that it is enough for me to be happy.

Tuk tuk driver Pros driving my friends Jess and Kim

Journey into the Jungle

After enjoying the luxurious conveniences of the first world in Australia, we returned to Cambodia to take a trip into the jungle.  From Phnom Penh, we drove eight hours to reach the far northeast province of Ratanakiri.  There we met the guides who led us on our adventure.

Our first stop was the island village of Koh Pheap, where we observed the huts and daily activities of rural people who live along the Sesan River.  We were also invited to join in an ongoing funeral celebration, where we danced with the villagers around the burial totems.

Dancing at a Koh Pheap funeral

From the village, we took a one-hour boat ride.  That sounds relaxing, but unfortunately it's not.  The boat was similar to a canoe, with a loud, vibrating outboard motor.  Imagine sitting for an hour on a hard, vibrating piece of plywood with an annoying, unending buzzing all around you.  We were quite glad to reach the shore!

Boat Ride on the Sesan River

After leaving the boats, we hopped on mountain bikes and rode for two hours along bumpy, dusty trails.  In some places, the trail was so dry that the dirt had literally turned to sand, in which case we had to walk our bikes through.  Although I'm not a skilled mountain biker, it was fun to conquer the rough terrain.  All of our butts paid the price though.

Jeremy and Erin showcasing their biking skills

Our reward at the end was the camp, where we ate dinner and rested for the evening.  We also got to sleep in hammocks, which were surprisingly more comfortable than I thought they'd be.

Our guide Sam with Erin, Erica, and Jeremy

The next morning, the guides woke us at 4:00 am.  After quick cups of tea and coffee, we set off walking into the jungle.  Our goal was to see gibbons in their natural habitat in the jungle.  Our guide eventually slowed, listening to the jungle around him.  Then he set off quickly in a new direction and we scurried to follow him.  For the next half an hour, we were literally tearing through the jungle, getting tangled in vines, snagging our pants on the thorny brush, trying to keep up with the guide as he went deeper and deeper into the jungle and closer and closer to the gibbons.  Finally, the guide stopped and pointed up into the trees.  I saw nothing except branches and leaves, until eventually my eyes captured movement and registered the shape of a gibbon high up in the canopy.  For at least 30 minutes, we watched as a family of gibbons - mom, dad, baby, and two adolescents - played, groomed, and swung in the trees.  It was really quite a sight, and worth the journey into the jungle.

Gibbon mother with baby

Khmer New Year

Cambodians are so lucky:  They get to celebrate three New Years.  First is International New Years on January 1.  Second is Chinese New Year around February, which is not a government holiday, but many businesses close and people take off work.  Third, and most important, is Khmer New Year, which Cambodia just celebrated this week.

Khmer New Year is held in April, at the end of the harvest season for farmers.  Cambodians travel home to be with their families and celebrate for three days.  Khmer New Year traditions include: 

• Cleaning your house and making purchases so that everything is "new" for the new year
• Setting up a shrine in your home where you pray for good fortune in the new year
• Bringing offerings to the monks at the Buddhist temples
• Bathing Buddha statues and elders (such as your parents) in perfumed water
• Participating in traditional games and dances

Many organizations hold a Khmer New Year celebration for their staff.  The U.S. Embassy was no different.  Our celebration started with monks offering a blessing for the new year.

Monks chant their blessing to the U.S. Embassy community

Then we were treated to traditional dances, both by professionals and our own talented staff.

Professional dancers perform the "Blessing Dance"

The highlight of the performances was a costume show of American staff wearing traditional outfits, complete with props and choreographed steps.

Dave and Laura showcase the "Fishing Dance" costumes

Sergio and Veronica smile in their "Krovanh Fruit Dance" costumes

After the performances, we started in on the games, which include Cambodian versions of tug-of-war, musical chairs, and sack races.  Eventually, the band kicked into high gear, and all party-goers danced into the night.

Observations of the First World

Jeremy and I just enjoyed a wonderful vacation in Australia.  Now that we live in the developing world, it's always extremely interesting, and exciting, to visit the First World and notice our reactions to it.  Here are a few of my observations:

Clean public bathrooms with reliably functioning flush toilets, running water, and soap are AWESOME!  Cambodia doesn't actually do too badly in the toilet department, but it's rare to find all four characteristics - clean, flushing, sink, and soap - on a consistent basis.  Australia also did a perfect job of providing free toilets in public spaces like parks and beaches whenever I needed one!

Roads with lines, stoplights, and pedestrian crossings that drivers actually respect are truly fascinating.  As I've mentioned in previous posts, the streets of Phnom Penh are chaotic.  Being in a place where drivers stay in their lanes, obey traffic lights, and stop for pedestrians was a bit of a (pleasant) shock.  Yet every time I crossed the street in Australia, even when all traffic was stopped and I had the right of way, I couldn't break the habit of looking every which way for possible oncoming vehicles hurtling my way.

On the flipside, I found the sidewalks difficult to deal with.  In Phnom Penh, there aren't a lot of walkers.  In Sydney and Melbourne, especially in the Central Business Districts, there are hordes of pedestrians.  Every cross walk felt like a battleground of trying to thread a path through the wall of people heading towards me.  In fact, I decided that the sidewalks of Australia are a bit like the streets of Phnom Penh - the "correct" side to walk/drive on is debatable, people stop or change pace/direction with no thought to who might be behind them, it's simply every woman for herself!

In Phnom Penh, I'm always hyper-aware of my surroundings, whether I'm driving or walking. When I'm driving, it's because I don't want to run anyone over.  When I'm walking, it's because I don't want to get run over!  However, I didn't have either of these concerns in Australia.  So I found it really easy to zone out a bit when driving through the country side or walking down uncrowded sidewalks.  I'm not sure this was really a good thing, because it meant I wasn't truly present in the moment, I was simply passing through it.

I was enthralled by all the gardens in Australia.  Every city we visited had large public gardens, usually multiple ones.  My favorites were Sydney's Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens, and Launceston's City Park.  I just loved strolling along and seeing a bright array of vibrantly colored flowers in front of me.  And it was wonderful seeing people using the gardens in different ways - teenagers sunbathing, couples reading, businessmen lunching, families picnicking.  I realized I've been starved of green space in Phnom Penh.  Phnom Penh does have parks, but most of them are paved, without much grass and only a sprinkling of trees.  Being surrounded by green - with grass beneath my feet, plants all around me, and a canopy of tree leaves above me - made me feel so content.

Museums were such a pleasure in Australia.  Displays were carefully organized to tell a story; everything was clearly labeled; exhibits were well-maintained.  I've been to several museums in Cambodia where I've walked out not feeling very sure of what I've been looking at.  Displays were haphazardly arranged; cases were overflowing with artifacts, with nary a label to explain their importance; sometimes exhibits had been defaced or well-past their prime.  I realize that Cambodia has many more pressing concerns than celebrating its cultural heritage, but it's sad to see such a lack of interest in preserving the past.

Of course, it was a fabulous trip.  We got to see new sights and visit with old friends.  We walked down sandy beaches and hiked through national parks.  We were able to recharge and come back to our regular lives refreshed, which should be the point of any vacation.

River God Fountain in Melbourne's Fitzroy Gardens

Rose Garden in Sydney's Royal Botanic Gardens

Jeremy playing chess in Launceston's City Park (Tasmania)

Erica feeding kangaroos in Tasmania

Jeremy at the Sydney Opera House

Photos from Angkor

We have had the opportunity to visit the Temples of Angkor three times.  Each time it has been with a friend or family member who invited (and in some cases funded!) us to join them...we are grateful for all their visits!  After three trips, we expect (and, to be honest, hope) that our temple tours are over.  As a farewell tribute to Angkor, I'm sharing a selection of amusing photos we've taken during our multiple visits.

Our magazine pose photo at Kbal Spaen waterfall, where we pretended we were doing a
fashion magazine shoot where everyone is looking thoughtfully in every direction except the camera!

This is Jeremy's favorite little carving at Preah Khan Temple. The carvers added a bit of
comedy by depicting two smiling monkeys peeking out through the wheel spokes.

Jeremy finds a moment of zen under the tree roots at Ta Prohm Temple.

Erica plays the forlorn princess stuck in the tower at Bayon Temple.

Also at Bayon Temple, Erica goes nose to nose with one of the carved faces.

Jim subs in his face on a decapitated statue at the Angkor Thom ballustrade.

Jeremy waves hello from Banteay Srei Temple.

Jim minds his head through a tiny doorway at Ta Prohm Temple.

Erica caught with her mouth open at the Terrace of the Elephants.

Jeremy pulling on the Preah Khan Temple ballustrade.

Jeremy posing like an apsara dancer at Preah Khan Temple.

Ok, this one is not amusing; it's just a great family portrait of Erica, Jeremy,
and Jeremy's mom Ann in front of Angkor Wat.

Boat Cruises

It's a popular activity in Phnom Penh to go on a sunset boat cruise.  The arrangements are incredibly easy to make - reserve a boat, pay the captain about $25, invite your friends to bring food and drink, and spend two hours enjoying the ride.  People often organize cruises as farewell parties or when visitors come to town.  Jeremy and I have been fortunate enough to go on a cruise about once every 2-3 months.

Cruising with office mates on my first night in Phnom Penh

The boats themselves are modest affairs.  We often joke about how seaworthy they really are!  Occasionally we have been asked by the captain to move from the top deck to the bottom because he is afraid we are top-heavy and might tip over!

A typical boat for cruises

The usual path of the boats is to leave the boat docks and head south on the Tonle Sap River past the waterfront area of Phnom Penh.  This offers great views of the city sights and skyline.

Jeremy and Erica with Phnom Penh in the background

Just beyond the main waterfront area, the boats turn north up the Mekong River.  On this stretch of water, we can see the communities that make their homes on the river - small floating villages of fishermen and their families.

Boating communities on the river

Eventually, the captain turns us around and we can catch a few more sunset views before darkness descends and we return to the boat dock.

Sunset over Phnom Penh